Continuing the growth of your Nearby Naturals Mushroom Grow Kit--Outdoor or Indoor!
So you’ve harvested once, what’s next?
Do not throw away your kit! There is plenty of ‘shroom potential in there!
Read both continued growth options below, we have one for outdoor (first option) and one for indoor growth (second option).
Your next harvest, which is expected to be about 50% of the size of the first harvest, will not come as quickly as the first. If your first harvest was smaller than expected (less than .5 lbs), you can typically expect that the first pins didn’t set properly and the second to be larger than the first.
In between flushes there is a resting time of about one to two and a half weeks depending on variety. The mycelium regroups, digests a bit more of the nutrients, then goes for another “bloom”. Gold Oyster tends to be the most unpredictable, but also tend to produce the most subsequent harvests.
If you’ve kept your grow kit in appropriate conditions and kept the fruiting hole moist throughout the process and after your first harvest, your grow kit will likely start again automatically. This is typically the case, but if you’ve neglected it a bit its ok!
If you’ve already harvested and you’re still waiting on your second harvest for longer than 2.5 weeks, it is time to try to stimulate growth.
(Outdoor) This is suggested if you have an outdoor area in the appropriate temperature zone. It is the most hands off and produces the best subsequent yields, but the growth timing is unpredictable, so watch your spot! (not suggested with Lion's Mane because it picks up too much of the soil and is hard to clean)
Fig. 1 shows baby gold oyster mushrooms peeking through the leaf litter. the mushrooms enjoy the microclimate beneath the leaves, but not too deep or they cant find their way out!
Fig. 2 shows adolescent gold oyster mushrooms, ready to harvest in a day or two!
First option instructions
(Choose an area that does not get sprayed with harsh chemicals, only bury your kit in soil you'd eat vegetables from)
- Remove the grow block from the bag entirely.
- Bury the grow block (whole) under about an inch of loosely packed soil in a shady area. Covering the area with some leaf litter is ideal, but not totally necessary.
- Water the area thoroughly to make sure the block is fully rehydrated, but not drowning.
- Keep the area moist by watering the ground directly once a day until you see baby mushrooms begin to form (this will typically happen overnight about a week after “planting”)
- If you live in a dry area, mist the mushrooms with a hose mister or spray bottle throughout the fruiting process. Humid areas such as Florida won’t need the extra misting.
- Pluck the mushrooms when theyre ready (see harvesting guide for assistance) then keep it moist until the next growth!
- See "fig. 3" below for a pro tip on expanding with fresh substrate.
shows what should happen if you break apart the grow block and mix it in with a bed of wood chips, straw, or even cardboard. The mycelium will colonize a larger area and likely fruit multiple clusters in larger flushes.
Fig 4. shows a nice 2nd flush from a blue oyster block buried in plan soil. The caps tend to be larger when grown outdoor due to the increased amount of oxygen in the air.
(Indoor) This involves rehydrating the substrate block to give the mushrooms a drink and prepare them for continued growth.
- Using scissors, cut the bag along the top seam, above the white filter patch, but keep the bag intact as much as possible.
- Remove the block from the bag and submerge it in cold water to rehydrate. Leave it there for about 30 minutes.
- Remove the block and allow it to drip for a few minutes, then put it back in the bag.
- Fold over the excess plastic as tightly as you can and line up the original fruiting hole with the opposite side of the block from your initial fruiting.
- Make sure to strain any excess moisture from the bag after this soaking process, standing water within the bag can breed bacteria or other fungi.
- Tape the bag tightly around the block while keeping that fruiting hole in the desired location and place it back into the box with the faceplate lined up with the fruiting hole as it was before.
- Scratch the surface of the block with a fork a bit to rough up the substrate through the fruiting hole.
- Put your humidity tent back up (using the flaps of the box and the humidity barrier) and continue as you did with your first harvest!