Lions Mane, Blue Oyster, Gold Oyster, Pink Oyster


Happy Growing!

These instructions are applicable to the Beginner Kits only. Our "Jumbo" Kits come with a QR code and separate instructions. 

Included in your package:

  • 1 bag of organic, sterilized substrate and mushroom mycelium.
  • 1 piece of plastic sheeting (this will act as a humidity tent)
  • 1 misting bottle

What you’ll need:

  • Tape
  •  Sharp clean knife
  • A couple of ounces of tap water

Site selection:
Mushrooms need 4 things in order to grow properly; light, humidity, proper temperature, and air exchange.

  • You’ll only need about a cubic foot of counter space and temperature between 55 and 75 degrees.
  • The built-in humidity tent and the misting will take care of their moisture requirements.
  • Normal indoor lighting is fine, they’re not picky about lumens or UV. Most of our customers put them on their kitchen counter. Turning the light off at night is not an issue. Also make sure they aren’t in direct sunlight. This increases temperature for them and can cause other issues as well. 
  • Don’t coop them up in a cabinet or elsewhere with stagnant air. Mushrooms breathe oxygen like we do! They need plenty of open air after pinning (baby mushroom forming) to grow properly. Avoid direct drafts like fans and vents. They can cause drying. 



Set Up: (about 2 minutes)

  • Open the box right side up, remove the grow bag from the box without breaking apart the substrate inside. 
  • Grab the top of the bag and wrap it around tightly around the bag so one of the large broad sides is on top. You can secure your bag with a bit of tape if you would like, although it isn’t necessary. Place your block with tightly wrapped bag (with extra wrapping side down) back into the box. It should fit snugly. It’s important that the bag is tight to force the cluster to grow neatly out of the cut you are about to make. 
  • Make an X cut in the center of the plastic of about 2.5-3 inches with a clean knife. It’s expected you will scratch through the substrate a bit as well when you do this. This stimulates a bit a of growth. You don’t have to apply a lot of pressure though. Just enough to make the clean cuts in the plastic. It’s normal to see a bit growing under the bag where you didn’t make the cut. Do not make any other cuts. It increases chance of contamination and drying. 
  • Stand up the box flaps, drape the humidity barrier over top of the flaps, and secure with a couple of small pieces of tape.
  • Mist the area under the X cut in the bag. Spritz the substrate, grow-bag plastic, and underside of the humidity barrier.


Continued care:

  • Continue misting about 2 times a day (4-5 times if you live in a dry climate). Use about a half-teaspoon of water per misting session.
  • Misting tips: The misting part is simple once you know the why of what you're doing.You have to adjust yourself and the goal is to try to maintain the humidity level (maybe ever so slightly more) the bag came with inside. When we make the bags, we blend in the perfect amount of water to the substrate. When you take down the tent after pinning, you need to mist a little more to maintain that humidity. People in drier climates will need to be a little more observant about humidity levels. It's important to keep in mind that it isn't like watering plants (imitating a rainshower) it's ambient humidity.
  • The mycelium will form baby mushrooms AKA “pins” within two weeks. Some will pin more quickly and some will pin a little more slowly. It’s difficult to put an exact timing on a natural process. 
  • Once they have “pinned” they will grow quite quickly from there and will be ready in 3-8 days depending on variety and temperature.
  • As soon as the baby mushrooms form, remove the humidity tent and fold the flaps of the box back down to allow for the increased airflow they need to mature properly.  

Post pinning care--Blue, Gold, and Pink Oyster

-Continue misting the baby mushrooms directly and lightly around the bag to promote humidity

-Oyster mushrooms grow extremely quickly, don’t blink! They should be ready to harvest in roughly 4-5 days after pinning. The Gold Oyster pins look quite different from their mature form (as babies they look kind of like a giant popcorn, sometimes confused for Lion’s Mane).

-You’ll want to harvest your oyster mushrooms before the caps begin to flatten out. You will notice the edges of the mushroom caps start to get thinner and uncurl over time. You want to catch them before they go too far. This is before the mushrooms sporulate. After they spore, they age and dry quickly as their “job” is finished.


Post pinning care--Lions Mane

  • Continue misting your baby mushrooms, but not do mist directly. Direct misting can cause some yellowing/browning. Leave some distance between the spray bottle and the mushroom to avoid soaking it. About 2 feet of distance does the trick! You should also mist the bag around where you made your X cut to give it humidity through evaporation. 
  • Your mushrooms will grow quickly from the pinning stage. You can expect them to be ready to harvest in just about a week.
  • You’ll notice as it reaches full size it will start to form “hairs” or little spikes. This variety does not form the long teeth. 
  • You’ll want to harvest the mushroom when the hairs reach about 1/8 of an inch long or start to not stand straight up by themselves. 

Harvesting and starting new harvest

-To harvest, simply grab the cluster firmly by the base and twist/rock it back and forth until it pops right off.

-Remove any leftover mushroom material from the fruiting hole and you can see the substrate under the X cut again. The substrate block inside the bag will have shrunk and made the bag loose. Pull it back out of the box and make it tight again like you did when starting the kit. Use the same X cut for the subsequent harvests. 

-Mist the fruiting hole well and re-erect the humidity tent.

-Start back at the “continued care” section and repeat!

-The average amount of harvests is about 2.5 if properly cared for, but customers regularly report up to 6 harvests per kit. The harvests will decrease in size as the nutrients are converted into mushrooms.

-Subsequent harvest can take a little longer to appear than the initial harvest so patience is key :)

Cooking and storing your harvest

  • Store in the fridge in a paper bag or breathable container. You can even wrap loosely in a dish cloth.
  • Eat within a week. 
  • Don’t wash the mushrooms! If any substrate happens to get on them just brush them off. Washing leads to water logged shrooms :( .Indoor grown mushrooms are safe to consume without washing! 
  • If you can’t eat all of what you’ve grown, sauté then freeze them in airtight containers to easily add to meals later. 


Happy growing!